Photos courtesy of GANNI, (di)imaginative and prescient and A. Roege Hove
For fairly a while, the commonly held notion of a lot Scandinavian trend was that it was reliably luxurious however protected. Due to initiatives like Copenhagen Fashion Week, nevertheless, the world has awoken to the calibre of the artistic expertise that calls the Nordic area residence. What really units aside the Danish capital’s trend week, nevertheless, isn’t merely the usual of expertise on present — relatively, in an age through which conversations round the necessity to create and implement extra sustainable trend week fashions are rife, CPHFW is without doubt one of the few really doing simply that.
Underneath the management of Cecilie Thorsmark, its CEO since 2019, CPHFW has applied strict sustainability necessities (readable here) for all collaborating designers, which can absolutely come into impact subsequent yr. Whereas assembly them definitely entails inside shifts on behalf of the manufacturers, it’s a notable instance of how presentational platforms can use their institutional energy to actively push for change — all whereas demonstrating that pursuing a extra accountable trend apply needn’t entail any sacrifice with regards to the artistic customary of the work on present. Right here, we run by 9 of the collections proven at Copenhagen Trend Week AW22 that proved simply that.
Designers’ Nest
Contents
The Nordics aren’t essentially the primary place the style {industry} appears to be like to pick rising skills, however there’s an organisation doing a rattling good job of fixing that. Spearheaded by Danish trend scholar Ane Lynge-Jorlén, Designers’ Nest is a non-profit expertise incubator dedicated to spotlighting probably the most promising designers popping out of Scandinavia’s (criminally underrated) colleges. This yr’s showcase — comprising 10 current graduates from establishments together with Helsinki’s Aalto College, the Swedish School of Textiles in Stockholm, and the Royal Danish Academy of Advantageous Arts in Copenhagen — was a testomony to the industry-leading calibre of the area’s new names to know.
The prizes they competed for had been proof of that, too. Taking residence a six-month paid internship with Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Işık on the Trussardi studio in Berlin was Rentaro Iino, a Japanese designer from Oslo’s Nationwide Academy of the Artwork, whose assortment — solely crafted in brilliant merino knits — demonstrated unbelievable technical ability and a sensibility for form. Leevi Ikäheimo from Aalto College received the Exhibition Prize, granting his playfully arresting, sculptural investigations of masculine stereotypes a spot in an upcoming main exhibition at DesignMuseum Danmark. Frederik Taus of the Royal Danish Academy of Advantageous Arts introduced a mischievous-yet-powerful physique of labor that merged an innovatively sustainable strategy to design with a robust message round gender presentation. And Korean designer Boram Yoo, one other Aalto graduate, took residence the Jury Prize – which included a 50000 Danish Kroner money prize, a examine journey to Japan, and a coveted trophy – for a set which skillfully balanced the reclamation of a troubled previous, a refreshing sense of optimism, and a nuanced understanding of print, supplies and textures.
Boram Yoo. Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of Designer’s Nest
Bror August Vestbø. Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of Designer’s Nest
Leevi Ikäheimo. Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of Designer’s Nest
Mikaela Mårtensson. Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of Designer’s Nest
Frederik Taus. Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of Designer’s Nest
Joona Rautiainen. Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of Designer’s Nest
Rintaro Iino. Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of Designer’s Nest
(di)imaginative and prescient
Regardless of solely making their runway debut final season, (di)vision – a Copenhagen-based label run by sibling duo Nanna and Simon Wick – have made unbelievable progress in establishing themselves as one of many Danish capital’s labels to know. That buzz was nearly palpable within the metropolis’s Planetarium — the venue for his or her newest present — which thrummed with the whoops and cheers of the members of the model’s shut knit group sat within the viewers alongside the same old cohort of press, patrons et al. Seeing the 30 or so appears to be like file down the runway, the thrill was properly justified. Although (di)imaginative and prescient has constructed a fame for slicing and splicing acquainted garment archetypes to create appears to be like imbued with horny, street-y aptitude, this season noticed Nanna and Simon look past the horizons of the on a regular basis. The pair, a launch reads, had been impressed by “the unexplainable phenomena occurring in our skies”; “the thought of one thing being on the market”. Whereas their heads could have been excessive above the clouds this season, there was nonetheless one thing decidedly all the way down to earth concerning the texturally wealthy bricolages they confirmed – denim denims spliced with plaids and patchwork shirting felt distinct but relatable, and jigsaw jersey jumpsuits seemingly cobbled from outdated band tees gave sudden pops of eccentricity. The gathering was at its most elevated with the outerwear items —that are quick changing into a signature for the model — with explicit standouts being the two-tone jackets and lengthy coats with vertical zippers operating down the again seam. Contemplate it proof that DIY and high-end design aren’t by any means opposites.
Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of (di)imaginative and prescient
Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of (di)imaginative and prescient
Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of (di)imaginative and prescient
Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of (di)imaginative and prescient
Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of (di)imaginative and prescient
Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of (di)imaginative and prescient
Images James Cochrane. Picture courtesy of (di)imaginative and prescient
Stine Goya
“I wished to do a really daring, assured assortment,” mentioned Stine Goya backstage after her eponymous label’s present. “This season was actually about constructing on Stine Goya’s codes, however then actually making an attempt to push issues in a brand new course.” For many who aren’t within the know, the model has lengthy provided an exuberantly romantic foil to Copenhagen’s fame for pared-back, pragmatic design. This season, although, the designer took a relatively techier strategy than we’ve beforehand seen, with foiled outerwear and gradient prints tinging the gathering with a space-age really feel. These extra ethereal motifs had been grounded by the abundance of wealthy florals and fluffy knits that known as out to be touched, all nods to the Stine’s central inspiration for this season, the work of Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson. “He did this excellent piece on the Fondation Beyeler in Basel known as LIFE the place he introduced nature into artifical buildings,” Stine shared. “I actually liked the way in which he performed with color, with greens and blue, for instance, which translated to the liquid prints you see all through the gathering — they nearly appear like drops of color diffusing in water.”
Picture courtesy of Stine Goya.
Picture courtesy of Stine Goya.
Picture courtesy of Stine Goya.
Picture courtesy of Stine Goya.
Picture courtesy of Stine Goya.
A. Roege Hove
After delivering one of many standout exhibits of Copenhagen Trend Week last season, A. Roege Hove confronted a frightening job for any younger designer this season – following it up. It might appear, although, that Amalie (the label’s namesake designer) had little issue in doing that, delivering a set that lifted her idiosyncratic acrylic knit approach to bold new heights. The flexibility of her strategy was stored intact, and proudly exhibited in clingy chocolate cardigans and nightshade column attire, however the place the younger designer’s improvement actually made itself felt was within the appears to be like that took the physique as some extent of departure, relatively than responding on to it. “After I’m creating, what I discover actually fascinating is working the material in my arms, pulling it and pushing it, which resulted in these extra architectural shapes on the physique,” she says. Counterbalancing these extra sculptural items, which appeared to tackle a life impartial of their wearer, had been those who relied on human varieties – and a refreshingly consultant vary of them, it needs to be famous. Slightly than a acutely aware try and chime with present casting tendencies, nevertheless, Amalie’s motivation to design with various our bodies in thoughts is altogether extra humble. “It is actually nearly seeing these types on completely different individuals,” she says. “It is not about upsetting anyone, I simply wish to create the most effective outfit for each lady, and present that completely different physique varieties actually convey one thing to the garments.”
Picture courtesy of A. Roege Hove
Picture courtesy of A. Roege Hove
Picture courtesy of A. Roege Hove
Picture courtesy of A. Roege Hove
Picture courtesy of A. Roege Hove
Picture courtesy of A. Roege Hove
Picture courtesy of A. Roege Hove
Saks Potts
Copenhagen’s trend weeks is without doubt one of the uncommon few that basically make use of the town, bringing it to life by internet hosting exhibits in a few of its most emblematic places. If anybody’s successful the prize for that this season, it’s little question Saks Potts, who took to the neo-futuristic Copenhagen Opera Home, the Henning Larsen-designed monument perched simply throughout the water from the royal place. Slightly than an ode to the rousing performances that happen there, although, Cathrine Saks and Barbara Potts selected the multi-levelled, ethereal area on account of the clean-slate backdrop it offered. “The environment right here on the Opera Home feels nearly a bit like an airport, with all of the bridges and completely different ranges,” mulled Cathrine backstage after the present. “We wished to faucet into this concept of individuals coming in from all around the world, being their very own character and never making an attempt to be a part of a bunch.”
That sense of eclecticism and private celebration carried over into the gathering itself – a full wardrobe spanning slinky chartreuse mousseline attire and dishevelled rollneck sweaters in speckled knits; python-effect lambskin trenchcoats, cropped foulard-print kaftans and wise shearling coats. There have been, after all, distinct aesthetic narratives that ran by the gathering – this season, the women drew explicit inspiration from the textures and practicality of conventional looking clothes, leading to jodhpurs, hardy knits and harris tweeds, in addition to nifty add-ons like thoughtfully positioned D-rings and AirPod circumstances – however the impression you had been actually left with was of the vary of their proposal: “This assortment can also be actually about embracing all the women,” Barbara mentioned, “it is for our household, our buddies, and we even had one in every of our crew members stroll on this present.”
Picture courtesy of Saks Potts
Picture courtesy of Saks Potts
Picture courtesy of Saks Potts
Picture courtesy of Saks Potts
Picture courtesy of Saks Potts
Picture courtesy of Saks Potts
Wooden Wooden
Making it 20 years in an {industry} as fickle as trend is, after all, no imply feat. This season, that was the milestone handed by Wood Wood, a key participant within the export of pragmatic Scandi-cool to the world. For the turning of its second decade, the Copenhagen-based powerhouse staged a becoming celebration of the model’s founding codes. From rugged Norse knit overcoats to workwear-inspired denim boilersuits and separates, the gathering was a revindication of the elevated practicality that so many affiliate with Scandinavian trend – largely because of the function that Wooden Wooden has performed in shaping its picture over time. It wasn’t all about rugged fundamentals, although. This season, a way of inventive aptitude was dropped at the desk by the use of a collaboration with Danish painter Tal R, whose in depth archive served as a supply for the graphics seen throughout embroidered patches on the again of jackets and richly textured jacquards.
Picture courtesy of Wooden Wooden
Picture courtesy of Wooden Wooden
Picture courtesy of Wooden Wooden
Picture courtesy of Wooden Wooden
Picture courtesy of Wooden Wooden
Picture courtesy of Wooden Wooden
Picture courtesy of Wooden Wooden
Solitude Studios
If ever you’re in search of designers making a convincing case for swampcore, then look no additional than upstart Copenhagen label Solitude Studios. In a medieval church area within the outdated metropolis centre, the collective introduced their debut assortment of intricately handwrought clothes off schedule – in simply the renegade spirit that their title implies. In a near-exclusively earthen palette, a parade of skimpy knits – assume laddered legwarmers clipped onto rugged tweed miniskirts, and fishnet cowl hoods – faintly medieval time-gnawed linen shirting, layered trousers and padded, panelled bombers filed down a straw-strewn runway – which later grew to become the positioning of a raucous hay combat in a efficiency by artist Esben Weile Kjaer. It definitely made for a daring (to not point out sneezy) impression, however past the theatrics, what you had been left with was a set of thought-about, intelligently-crafted garments that took a left flip from the prim trend that Copenhagen is understood for, providing one thing that felt genuinely contemporary for the town in consequence.
Picture courtesy of Solitude Studios
Picture courtesy of Solitude Studios
Picture courtesy of Solitude Studios
Picture courtesy of Solitude Studios
Picture courtesy of Solitude Studios
Picture courtesy of Solitude Studios
Picture courtesy of Solitude Studios
Jade Cropper
Flying the flag for the white-hot revival of Y2K this season was Jade Cropper, the designer displaying on this season’s coveted Expertise Slot – basically a devoted “one to observe” spot on the schedule. In a present styled by BFC New Wave member Billy Lobos, the daring sensuality of her design language made itself felt in flowing popper-seamed wide-leg trousers and asymmetrical tops, trailing cut up fronted denim skirts and long-sleeved bustier tops, which exhibited the form of empowered female vitality that we’ve beforehand seen from designers like KNWLS and Supriya Lele in London. Elsewhere, moto-inspired leather-based separates introduced a grain of grunge to the providing, demonstrating spectacular versatility within the vary of types, strategies, and textiles that the younger Swedish designer is ready to work into her repertoire.
Picture courtesy of Jade Cropper
Picture courtesy of Jade Cropper
Picture courtesy of Jade Cropper
Picture courtesy of Jade Cropper
Picture courtesy of Jade Cropper
Picture courtesy of Jade Cropper
Ganni
If there’s one model that by no means fails to speak an unflagging sense of optimism by their clothes, it’s Ganni. One among Copenhagen Trend Week’s flagship occasions, this season noticed the hometown heroes forego a bodily taking place in favour of an expertise it might be unfair to name a “digital present”. Slightly, it was an immersive, screen-based celebration of what the Danish manufacturers represents, starring Danish singer Jada together with a bevvy of Ganni ladies together with Kesewa Aboah and Olivia Vinten. An uplifting ode to the {powerful} ladies on the coronary heart of the worldwide group that the Danish model has constructed, it was charged with a daring spirit of optimism to counteract the gloom of current instances.
That very same spirit was loudly echoed within the garments, with Ditte Refstrup, Ganni’s artistic director, drawing upon recollections of pop icons like Björk and PJ Harvey, each of whom she was an avid listener of throughout her teenagers. As ever with Ganni, there was selection aplenty right here, with the grungy spirit of tartan checks and python prints counterposed by dry tailoring wools and fuzzy sherbert knits. Crocheted vest had been worn with foil handled denim denims and ruched crop tops in burgundy sequins and cotton wrap attire had been mounted with dainty bow ties. What introduced collectively this eclectic vary of appears to be like, although, was a throughline of pleasure, celebration and confidence; the identical universally uplifting message that has cemented Ganni’s fame as one in every of Scandinavia’s most generally adored modern trend manufacturers.
Picture courtesy of GANNI
Picture courtesy of GANNI
Picture courtesy of GANNI
Picture courtesy of GANNI
Picture courtesy of GANNI
Picture courtesy of GANNI
Picture courtesy of GANNI
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