I additionally don’t assume that the phrases Bolton has hooked up to every look — the “lexicon” half: “freedom,” “fluency,” “coziness,” “calm” — will make any actual impression on guests. However I guess what individuals will bear in mind is how coherent sure overarching themes are: the elegant black gown, draped simply so on the physique from Charles James via Isabel Toledo and Rick Owens; the structured skirt swimsuit; the camel cashmere; plush selfmade knit; denim (after all!); and the actually terrific opening room that includes a bouquet of patchwork garments by everybody from Ralph Lauren to SC103 and Puppets and Puppets. And the entire thing could make guests assume twice about American trend, which was the objective.
That stated, I additionally guess individuals will probably be drawn to the Dior present, which calls for much less of the viewer. It’s like a Marvel film to the Met’s Wes Anderson. What do you assume?
WOOLFE There’s one thing of a reversal of roles right here: The scrappy Brooklyn Museum internet hosting the glam behemoth, whereas the mighty Met strikes a sweeter, extra modest and (dare I say) underground pose. (That extends to the apt soundtrack: the genially twinkling “Femenine,” a lately rediscovered work from the Seventies by the Black, homosexual Submit-Minimalist composer Julius Eastman.)
It says one thing — every part? — about New York and the way it’s modified that Dior has taken up residence in Prospect Heights, fairly than on Fifth Avenue.
In America: A Lexicon of Vogue
Half 1 of the Costume Institute’s exhibition, “In America: A Lexicon of Vogue,” Sept. 18 via Sept. 5, 2022, on the Anna Wintour Costume Middle, Metropolitan Museum of Artwork, 1000 Fifth Ave., 212-535-7710; metmuseum.org. (Half 2, “In America: An Anthology of Vogue” opens Could 5, 2022.) Timed tickets required for admission to Museum; guests age 12 and older should present proof of vaccination in opposition to Covid-19.
Christian Dior: Designer of Desires
By way of Feb. 20, 2022, Brooklyn Museum, 200 Japanese Parkway, Brooklyn, N.Y., 718-638-5000; brooklynmuseum.org. Timed tickets; guests 12 and older should present proof of vaccination and a sound I.D.
