PARIS — The identify Kim Jones dominated Paris fashion for a second week working because the indefatigable Briton who designs for Dior Males’s returned to the runway for his newest couture assortment for Fendi.
Following within the footsteps of the late Karl Lagerfeld on the Roman home’s inventive helm is not any simple activity — however Jones once more labored his up to date sensibility into luxuriant designs to channel the Everlasting Metropolis.
It produced one other intelligent show.
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Listed here are some highlights of the ultimate day of spring 2022 couture collections:
Fendi’s Rome
Fragments of structure, incandescently lit, had been suspended on a darkish runway contained in the neoclassical Brongniart Palace. Above it, including to the drama hovered a large orb manufactured from white mild. This was, Jones mentioned, the realm of “the celestial Rome” — however not as we all know it. It was reinterpreted together with his irreverent eye.
This season’s inspiration was mundane sufficient: Jones’ stroll to work on the Fendi atelier in Rome, the place he handed by historic monuments solely to reach in a recent surroundings. But the designs had been something however — exploring a juxtaposition between “statuesque marbles” and “ecclesiastical aesthetics” with a futuristic, very sensual imaginative and prescient.
Fashions walked out to a flash of a strobe mild, in a slick impact suggesting that they had simply been solid by some heavenly seamstress. The designs had been equally slick.
A shimmering black robe with turtleneck and cap evoked a priest’s cassock — with the mannequin holding a beaded twine. The skirt was slit, her leg uncovered, and her head cocked downward provocatively. This was some form of fallen angel.
Elsewhere, a black silk robe whose embroideries gleamed like armor seemed half heavenly princess, half warrior. The mannequin clutched a purse resembling both royal orb and a spiked ball weapon. The duality was nice style staging, thrilling friends, together with “Prometheus” star Noomi Rapace who applauded from the entrance row.
Non secular photographs had been splashed throughout duchesse silks and organzas that merged with inches of uncovered flesh for this daring tackle couture.
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Charles de Vilmorin spooks
Halloween got here early for wunderkind Charles de Vilmorin.
The French designer, who catapulted to fame after launching his couture assortment in April 2020 and being shortly named Rochas inventive director, was impressed this season by the Loss of life Waltz. In case the time period is unfamiliar, the home kindly defined that it’s primarily based on a legend from the Center Ages that means you possibly can by no means escape the grim reaper. Appropriately, “Beetlejuice” director Tim Burton was conscripted to collaborate with the designer this season for a couture show that used de Vilmorin’s signature puffy silhouettes and painted by hand paintings to deathly impact.
An enveloping blood-red satin robe on a mannequin with satan stage make-up was embellished with shrunken skeletons — evoking the ultimate scene of the 1988 film traditional.
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Puffy pantaloons in silk, which evoked medieval costume and ended on the knee, conjured up photographs of the Italian theater. Its mannequin who wore ballet sneakers had an off-kilter air with purple cheeks and lit spookily in chiaroscuro.
But types generally veered off into pure theatrics like a feathered hood in bluebonnet and gauche fringed jacket.
