Chinese language labels flock to Paris to go world in excessive vogue

PARIS, Oct 6 (Reuters) – Chinese language vogue labels, together with Shang Xia, Icicle and Fosun Vogue Group, are embracing Paris as a springboard for his or her worldwide ambitions, opening flagship shops within the metropolis and hiring French designers to burnish their credentials.

Chinese language buyers are the most important consumers of luxurious items worldwide, together with these of massive European gamers like LVMH (LVMH.PA) and Gucci proprietor Kering . However China additionally has its personal vogue corporations which can be rising quick at residence and at the moment are focusing on the worldwide market.

Chinese language-owned manufacturers wish to increase overseas, sparking a pattern of recent labels being established within the nation with the purpose of worldwide development, mentioned Yishu Wang, co-founder of Half a World, a agency that gives advertising and marketing recommendation to manufacturers in search of to increase abroad.

“The Chinese language market could be very saturated and it is simply turn out to be very, very costly to develop,” she mentioned, noting that it was simpler to seek out backing from traders when taking a world view.

However in vogue’s higher echelons, Chinese language corporations, together with ones which have bought established European labels, have to this point discovered it onerous to take off in Western markets.

Shang Xia, based a decade in the past by Jiang Qiong Er and French luxurious group Hermes Worldwide (HRMS.PA), who each stay shareholders, began out as a way of life model centered on showcasing Chinese language craftsmanship after which expanded into ready-to-wear vogue.

Whereas the label is well-known in China, it has but to realize the broader industrial success that many within the business had anticipated.

“Chinese language luxurious manufacturers are nonetheless fairly area of interest,” Kathryn Parker, a luxurious sector analyst with Jefferies, mentioned.

Shang Xia confirmed its dedication to Paris when it held its first vogue present on Monday on the official Paris Vogue Week schedule, sending a lineup of fashions in polished fits in shiny colors alongside a round runway.

With backing from a brand new majority shareholder, the Agnelli household holding firm Exor (EXOR.MI), the label just lately arrange a design studio in Paris to enrich manufacturing in Shanghai.

“It’s a really daring transfer to do a present in Paris Vogue Week,” mentioned Exor managing director Suzanne Heywood, who can also be chairman of Shang Xia.


“We’re being watched carefully,” mentioned Isabelle Capron, worldwide vice chairman at ICCF, the proprietor of Chinese language label Icicle, noting that Chinese language corporations have to this point had restricted success in constructing high-end vogue companies with a global attain.

The French luxurious government was recruited in 2013 by Shouzeng Ye and Tao Xiaoma, founders of Icicle, which purchased the historic French couture home Carven in 2018 and in July created the ICCF Group.

Icicle, with gross sales of 334 million euros in 2020, up 12% from 2019, has 270 shops in 100 cities in China. The model caters to city professionals with earthy-toned overcoats and fits in top quality supplies, usually made with pure dyeing strategies.

Icicle’s founders selected Paris over London, New York and Milan for his or her funding, organising design studios, and recruiting expertise from French luxurious labels.

“It’s in Paris the place you will discover the expertise to boost the extent of the collections in order that the label can attain a global stage,” Capron mentioned.


Fosun Vogue Group has been working to revive the historic French label Lanvin with youthful, worldwide customers in thoughts, and employed Bruno Sialelli French designer from LVMH-owned Loewe label for the job.

For the spring 2022 ready-to-wear runway present in Paris, the designer confirmed slim social gathering clothes, worn by fashions in towering platform footwear with flared heels, together with an array of purses and a brand new pair of futuristic sneakers – equipment are key to the label’s development technique.

Supermodel Naomi Campbell closed the present, sweeping the runway with a protracted cape.

Shang Xia executives mentioned they’re in search of to broaden their buyer base amongst youthful customers, add new shops in Asia this 12 months and push into the digital realm past China subsequent 12 months.

“We’re in search of new means to embrace digitalisation,” mentioned Shang Xia founder Jiang Qiong Er, who flew in from Shanghai for the Paris present.

Shang Xia’s new inventive director Yang Li mentioned he seeks to use Asian and Jap design rules to the merchandise, stating a bag within the assortment within the form of a triangle.

“In our tradition, once we outline shapes, they’re absolute and pure,” he mentioned.

“What I wish to do right here is to say that China is not only a market, however a inventive drive as effectively,” Yang Li added.

Reporting by Mimosa Spencer. Modifying by Jane Merriman

Our Requirements: The Thomson Reuters Belief Rules.

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