Chinese language labels flock to Paris to go world in excessive trend

PARIS (Reuters) – Chinese language trend labels, together with Shang Xia, Icicle and Fosun Style Group, are embracing Paris as a springboard for his or her worldwide ambitions, opening flagship shops within the metropolis and hiring French designers to burnish their credentials.

FILE PHOTO: Fashions current a creation by designer Bruno Sialelli as a part of his Spring/Summer time 2022 ladies’s ready-to-wear assortment present for trend home Lanvin throughout Paris Style Week in Paris, France, October 3, 2021. REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes

Chinese language consumers are the most important consumers of luxurious items worldwide, together with these of massive European gamers like LVMH and Gucci proprietor Kering. However China additionally has its personal trend firms which might be rising quick at house and at the moment are concentrating on the worldwide market.

Chinese language-owned manufacturers want to increase overseas, sparking a pattern of recent labels being established within the nation with the aim of worldwide development, mentioned Yishu Wang, co-founder of Half a World, a agency that gives advertising and marketing recommendation to manufacturers in search of to increase abroad.

“The Chinese language market may be very saturated and it’s simply turn into very, very costly to develop,” she mentioned, noting that it was simpler to search out backing from buyers when taking a world view.

However in trend’s higher echelons, Chinese language firms, together with ones which have bought established European labels, have to date discovered it onerous to take off in Western markets.

Shang Xia, based a decade in the past by Jiang Qiong Er and French luxurious group Hermes Worldwide, who each stay shareholders, began out as a life-style model targeted on showcasing Chinese language craftsmanship after which expanded into ready-to-wear trend.

Whereas the label is well-known in China, it has but to realize the broader industrial success that many within the trade had anticipated.

“Chinese language luxurious manufacturers are nonetheless fairly area of interest,” Kathryn Parker, a luxurious sector analyst with Jefferies, mentioned.

Shang Xia confirmed its dedication to Paris when it held its first trend present on Monday on the official Paris Style Week schedule, sending a lineup of fashions in polished fits in shiny colors alongside a round runway.

With backing from a brand new majority shareholder, the Agnelli household holding firm Exor, the label not too long ago arrange a design studio in Paris to enrich manufacturing in Shanghai.

“It’s a really daring transfer to do a present in Paris Style Week,” mentioned Exor managing director Suzanne Heywood, who can also be chairman of Shang Xia.


“We’re being watched carefully,” mentioned Isabelle Capron, worldwide vice chairman at ICCF, the proprietor of Chinese language label Icicle, noting that Chinese language firms have to date had restricted success in constructing high-end trend companies with a world attain.

The French luxurious govt was recruited in 2013 by Shouzeng Ye and Tao Xiaoma, founders of Icicle, which purchased the historic French couture home Carven in 2018 and in July created the ICCF Group.

Icicle, with gross sales of 334 million euros in 2020, up 12% from 2019, has 270 shops in 100 cities in China. The model caters to city professionals with earthy-toned overcoats and fits in prime quality supplies, usually made with pure dyeing strategies.

Icicle’s founders selected Paris over London, New York and Milan for his or her funding, organising design studios, and recruiting expertise from French luxurious labels.

“It’s in Paris the place you’ll find the expertise to lift the extent of the collections in order that the label can attain a world stage,” Capron mentioned.


Fosun Style Group has been working to revive the historic French label Lanvin with youthful, worldwide shoppers in thoughts, and employed Bruno Sialelli French designer from LVMH-owned Loewe label for the job.

For the spring 2022 ready-to-wear runway present in Paris, the designer confirmed slim get together clothes, worn by fashions in towering platform sneakers with flared heels, together with an array of purses and a brand new pair of futuristic sneakers – equipment are key to the label’s development technique.

Supermodel Naomi Campbell closed the present, sweeping the runway with a protracted cape.

Shang Xia executives mentioned they’re in search of to broaden their buyer base amongst youthful shoppers, add new shops in Asia this 12 months and push into the digital realm past China subsequent 12 months.

“We’re in search of new means to embrace digitalisation,” mentioned Shang Xia founder Jiang Qiong Er, who flew in from Shanghai for the Paris present.

Shang Xia’s new artistic director Yang Li mentioned he seeks to use Asian and Japanese design rules to the merchandise, declaring a bag within the assortment within the form of a triangle.

“In our tradition, after we outline shapes, they’re absolute and pure,” he mentioned.

“What I need to do right here is to say that China is not only a market, however a artistic pressure as effectively,” Yang Li added.

Reporting by Mimosa Spencer. Modifying by Jane Merriman

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